Improvement in mechanism for sewing oval seams



A. JUDSON.

Mechanism for Sewing Oval Seams. N0. 68,828. Patented Sept. 10,1 67;

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' UNITED STATES i mmuhtlb AGUR JUDSON, OF NEWARK, new JEnsnY.

IMPROVEMENT lN MECHANISM FOR SEWING OVAL SEAMS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 68,828; dated September10, 1867.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, AGUR Jonson, of the city of Newark, in the county ofEssex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain Improvements inAttachments for Sewing- Machines for Sewing Oval Scams; and I do herebydeclare the following to be a full and exact description of the same,reference being had to the drawings accompanying this specification andmaking part of the same.

The object of my invention is, by the aid of certain attachments to beused in'connection with a sewing-machine, to cause the'fabric ormaterial to be stitched in oval, elliptic, or similar forms, which maybereadily varied at will, both in size and proportions; and also, inconnection therewith, the ready shifting and presenting ofthe materialto cutters to be cut into the desired oval form.

While the devices may be used whenever-it may be desirable to ornamentor to stitch together fabrics in an oval form, they are peculiarlyapplicable in the stitching of the tips of the linings of hats, in theuniting together by stitching of such tips with the side linings, and inthe cutting of such tips in the desired oval form and size from thepiece or sheet of fabric.

To accomplish the above-stated objects, my invention consists in the useof a pivoted frame,-supporting novel adjustable devices for carrying andoperating an oval plate in novel means for affixing the fabric to thisplate; in means for graduating and indicating the sizes of the oval orellipse to be stitchedand also in means for changing its relativediameters; in the application to a sewing-machine of revolving cutters,which shall also serve to feed to themselves the material to be cut, andin combining with the same the devices for describing the proper oval.

The form in which I have embodied my invention 1 will now proceed todescribe.

I have illustrated it as applied to a sewingmachine of the generalstructure known as the Willcox & Gibbs machine, a portion of thework-plate being cut away to receive properly the revolvingplate, whichguides and sustains the cloth, and permits it to be revolved; but it isevident that it may be applied equally well to most of, if not all, thevarieties of ma-v chines in use.

In the drawings, Figure 1 represent-s a sewing machine with my improvedmechanism for guiding the" cloth for oval seams, and also with thecutters in their proper positions for operation. Fig. 2 represents aside View, and also a top view, of the oval-moving holder. Figs. 3, 3 3represent the parts which produce the oval movement; and Figs. 4, 4 4the parts of the device for holding the silk or other fabric to be sewedand cut. r

The same letters refer to the same parts in each figure. g

A denotes the bed-piece of the holder, which is attachedto asewing-machine table by, and

vibrates when desired upon, the screw-bolt 2.- Either a slot is cut inthe table of the sewingmachine, or a plate, y, is inserted in the same,

this plate havingalongitudinal slot, to, through which a screw on theend of a bolt, 2, passes to nut beneath, for the purpose of adjustingthe distance from the needle and thecutters, as the work may require. Ascale upon the side of A indicates this distance. Upon the top of A is asliding plate, n, which is held in the required position by the screwto, when the plate is adjusted to the sized oval required, this latterbeing indicated by the scale t. Upon the end of A is a circular piece ofmetal, .5, in which is a slot from near itsxedge to a short distancepast its center. This disk is screwed to the top of A, the slide '0passing beneath it. It is shown in Fig. 3 by dotted lines upon theunder-side view of the oval plate B. Athin flat plate, '1", is provided,with its two parallel edges turned down at right angles to" theplate,'and fitting snugly over the edge of the disk, but yet atlibertyto turn In this plate is a and slide upon the same. slot, q,through which, as well as through a slot in the disk 8, passes the screw10 into the threaded hole in the end of the slide o under the disk 8. Itwill be seen that, as the screw 10 is the guide of the movements of theplate 1" as it is turned upon the disk .9, a line more or less oval willbe described by the plate, as p is placed nearer to or farther from thecenter of the disk s, which is done at pleasure by adjusting the slide'0. Thus the size of the oval is determined by the position of the screw2, and the shape of the oval is regulated by the position of the screw1;. The plate 1' is firmly, but removably, attached to the under side ofthe thin metal oval plate B, and the screw 19, passing through the plateand the disk into the slide- 'v, confines the plate to the top of thebed-piece A, leaving it to move freely on the top around the disk 8. Thecharacter of the movements of plate B must, therefore, coincide withthose of plate 1". Plate B and its top piece D, hereinafter mentioned,should be made as light as possible consistent with the requisite degreeof strength, in order to offer as little resistance as possible to thepull of the feeding device upon the fabric. Four sockets, more or less,0, are formed in this plate B, which are filled with cork or othersuitable substance, even with the upper side of B, the sockets beingclosed at thelower and open at their upper ends. In the center of theplate B, upon its upper side, is fixed a sharp point or pin, n. D is atop piece, which, for the sake of lightness, is preferably made of wood.This piece is shown in Fig. 1 in its proper position in the machine, andis also shown in Figs. 4, 4 and 4 It consists of a cross-piece, 1, and athin disk, is, the cross-piece being intended as a strengthener-bar forthe disk, and also to serve the purpose of a handle. In the under sideof the disk 7r,needle-points projectdownward. In sewing an oval seam,the material or fabric is put upon the point at on the upper side of B,as nearly central as ail-expert can do it on the instant, The top pieceD is then put upon the fabric to be stitched, its points passing throughthe same into the cork in the cups or sockets 0, thus insuring theturning of the plate B, and with it the plate a", about and upon thedisk 8, to produce their oval path of travel, as the feed-motion of thesewing-machine carries the material along. E represents a pair ofcircular shears or cutters, supported upon a suitable frame secured tothe table or platform of the sewing machine. These cutters are to beoperatedat the proper period by means of the crank i and bevelgears h hh. The position of the cutting-edges of these cutters is adjusted nearlyto the same radial distance from the screw-bolt 2, upon which thebed-piece A turns, as is the point of the needle, so that when the pieceof goods needing to cut into an oval form is put upon B, and thebed-piece A is moved about upon a line extendingfrom z to thecuttingpoint of the cutters, the turning of the crank i by the hand ofthe operator causes the shears to draw and cut the silk or othermaterial, the oval-describing devices acting the same as in the case ofthe stitching, to insure the cutting in the oval form desired. Thebed-piece A is then brought back to the stop, and if the article is ahat-tip, the side lining f is held by the operator, or passed throughany ordinary guide, and sewed to the tip by the machine.

I claim as my improvement 1. In oval-seamin g attachment forsewingmachines, the combination, with devices for stitching oval orelliptic forms, of an apparatus for cutting the material into similarforms.

2. The frame or bed piece A, with its adjustable devices for describingovals or ellipses, when so applied to a sewing-machine table that it maypresent the fabric either to the needle or to the cutters.

3. The revolving plate 4, constructed and operating substantially asdescribed.

4. The radially-slotted disk 8, applied and operating as and for thepurpose set forth.

5. The combination of plate 7' and slotted disk 8, for joint action,substantially as set forth.

6. The combination of the adjustable slide 02 with the disk 8, as andfor the purpose set forth.

7. The plate B, provided with sockets for the reception of cork or othersubstance, as and for the purpose set forth.

8. The combination of plate B, constructed as described, with the topplate or piece D, as and for the purpose set forth.

9. The combination, with frameA, of a scale for indicating the size ofthe oval to be described.

10. The combination, with such frame, of a scale for indicating thechange in the form of the oval to be described.

AGUB JUDSON.

Witnesses:

W. M. GOODING,

A. HICKINBOTTOM.

